Next, the top plate is cut and secured to the ceiling. Make use of either a plumb bob or a straight piece of wood, trued up with a level, to mark the location of the top plate. You can't use a nearby wall as a guide, since that wall itself may be out of alignment. Fastening the top plate depends on the ceiling material and the direction of the joists above it. If your plate is to run at right angles to the joists, it may simply be nailed to them, If, however, the plate is to run parallel to the joists and you have a plasterboard ceiling, it is necessary to plan the wall so that the top plate will be directly under the joist which will supply the required nailing surface. If your ceiling is good sound plaster, the plate may be fastened to it with Molly anchors.
Studs are cut to fit snugly between the two plates. While they are generally spaced at 16" intervals, they may also be spaced at 20" or 24" intervals, depending on the sheet size of the wall-covering material that will be used. Studs are to nailed on all four sides into the plate with 8d nails. It's practical to mark off the location of all the studs on the sole plate before any are nailed in. If you plan a doorway, locate the two full-length studs on each side of it and then mark off the location of those to each side of the opening at the desired spacing. If your wall has an outside corner or a door, start at this point and mark off in each direction from it; Regardless of the final spacing, attach one studs to any wall your new wall contacts. Studs may be trued up with a level, their position marked on the top plate and then to nailed into place. You might find it easier to use spacers-strips cut from 1-by-3 stock to equal lengths. Place these between studs, top and bottom, then nail into the plates. With these strips, no level is needed after the first studs is properly trued up.
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